Where To Eat in Seville
I've been eating tapas here my whole life. These are the places that make it worth it.
Quick note on prices: In Seville, a tapa at a proper bar is €1.50–€3. If you're paying €7 for a small plate, you're in a tourist trap — or a very fancy restaurant. Both are fine, just know which one you're in. €€ here means moderate, not expensive.
Tapas Bars (Local Edition)
El RinconcilloDon't miss
Santa Catalina · €
Established 1670 — the oldest bar in Seville. The staff chalk your tab on the wooden bar. Order the spinach with chickpeas (espinacas con garbanzos) and the croquettes.
Order: Espinacas con garbanzos, Croquetas de jamón
Casa MoralesDon't miss
El Arenal · €
Former wine shop with giant clay jars still embedded in the walls. Simple, cheap, honest. The manzanilla (dry sherry) is exactly as it should be.
Order: Manzanilla, Jamón ibérico
Bar El Comercio
Barrio Nervión · €
Where you go when you want to eat exactly what a sevillano eats for lunch. Counter service, TV on, football probably playing. Rotating daily specials.
Order: Whatever they wrote on the board today
La Azotea
Casco Antiguo / Alfalfa · €€
More creative than the classics, but earns it. The carrillada (braised pork cheek) and the tuna tartare are consistently excellent. Multiple locations — the Jesús del Gran Poder one is best.
Order: Carrillada ibérica, Tartar de atún
Taberna Coloniales
Centro / Alfalfa · €
Packed, noisy, impossible to get a table on Friday night. That's the point. Generous pours, cheap tapas, great atmosphere.
Order: Gambas al ajillo, Solomillo al whisky
Bar Las Teresas
Barrio de Santa Cruz · €€
Yes, it's in the tourist quarter. It's still good. One of the few places in Santa Cruz I'd send a friend to. The jamón hanging from the ceiling is the real deal.
Order: Jamón ibérico de bellota, Salmorejo
Markets
Mercado de TrianaDon't miss
Triana · €
The best market in Seville. Built on the ruins of the Castillo de San Jorge (you can see the archaeological site underneath). Fresh produce, fish, cheese, and some bars inside for breakfast.
Order: Fresh seafood at the fish counter, Coffee at the bar
Mercado Lonja del Barranco
El Arenal · €€
A food hall in a beautiful 19th-century building designed by Gustave Eiffel. More gastro-market than traditional market. Good for a varied lunch, pricier than the rest.
Order: Whatever looks good that day
Breakfast (Sevillano Style)
Your nearest neighbourhood barDon't miss
Everywhere · €
This is not a joke. The best breakfast in Seville is a tostada con tomate y aceite (toasted bread with blended tomato and olive oil) and a café con leche at whichever bar is nearest to where you're staying. Don't pay €18 for avocado toast at a hotel.
Order: Tostada con tomate y aceite, Café con leche
More detail on all of these in the full blog post → The 11 tapas bars where locals actually go
Seville Food Tour: Tapas & Local Markets
A 3-hour walking tour through Triana market and the best tapas bars. Small groups (max 10), local guide. This is the one I'd recommend to my friends.